South America 2023-2025

My map
South America 2023-2025

Legend

Bus
Boat
Driving
Hiking
Car share / colectivo
Plane
Cycling
Train
Hitchhiking

Chez Pells (Gramacho), Portugal ‐ Jun 18, 2025

And finally... an uber to my parents' house to surprise my dad on his birthday.
Lagoa
Lisbon bus terminal! ‐ Jun 17, 2025
Adolfo Suárez Madrid-Barajas Airport, Spain
Cancún International Airport, Mexico ‐ Jun 16, 2025
Tulum ‐ Jun 14, 2025
Zona Arqueológica de Tulum
Tulum (La Valleta), Mexico ‐ Jun 12, 2025
Cancún
Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Manuel Gálvez, Honduras
Sandy Bay ‐ Jun 11, 2025
Roatán
Roatán, Honduras
Utila ‐ Jun 6, 2025
la ceiba ‐ Jun 5, 2025
San Pedro Sula
Copán Ruinas ‐ Jun 3, 2025

And finally to Honduras!
El Florido, Guatemala
Jocotán
Chiquimula ‐ Jun 2, 2025
Guatemala City
Panajachel ‐ Jun 1, 2025
Santa Cruz La Laguna ‐ May 31, 2025
Panajachel ‐ May 30, 2025
Antigua Guatemala ‐ May 26, 2025
Guatemala City

We made it to the Honduran visa consulate in Guatemala City and quickly realised it would be at least a few days before the visas would be ready – so we hopped on the bus out of the city to spend a few nights in Antigua.
Chiquimula
Jocotán

...and so back the way we came, and on to Guatemala City to the visa consulate.
El Florido ‐ May 25, 2025

Ten hours and five buses from Santa Ana in El Salvador to the Honduran border with Guatemala, only to learn that we needed a visa to enter the country. It was late and we had no choice but to spend the night in one of the most grim hostels I've ever seen, before leaving again at dawn the next morning.
Jocotán
Chiquimula
El Roble, El Salvador
Metapán
Santa Ana ‐ May 24, 2025
Parque Natural Cerro Verde
Volcán de Santa Ana 2381 m
Cerro Verde
Santa Ana ‐ May 23, 2025
San Salvador ‐ May 22, 2025
Volcan de San Salvador 1893 m
Volcan de San Salvador 1893 m
San Salvador ‐ May 21, 2025
El Tunco ‐ May 19, 2025
San Salvador
El Salvador International Airport

No other option but to fly to El Salvador, since Nicaragua denied me entry by land.
Aeropuerto Internacional Tobías Bolaños, Costa Rica ‐ May 18, 2025
Liberia ‐ May 17, 2025

Turned away at the border to Nicaragua after several hours of waiting / interrogation... because I am a journalist! Time for a new plan.
Peñas Blancas
Las Juntas
Santa Elena ‐ May 15, 2025
Mirador
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Curi-Cancha
Santa Elena ‐ May 14, 2025
San José ‐ May 12, 2025
Puerto Viejo ‐ May 11, 2025
Punta Uva
Puerto Viejo ‐ May 10, 2025
Sixaola
Guabito, Panama
Changuinola
Changuinola
El Empalme
Finca 3
Milla 2

From Bocas del Toro to the border: a dozen carshares, buses and taxis, walking between roadblocks during a national protest
Almirante
Bocas del Toro
Big Creek ‐ May 9, 2025
Bluff
Big Creek ‐ May 8, 2025
Bocas del Toro
Almirante ‐ May 7, 2025
Panama ‐ May 6, 2025
Panama Canal
Panama ‐ May 5, 2025
Cartí
San Blas Islands ‐ May 4, 2025
Isla Guanidup (San Blas Islands) ‐ May 3, 2025
Franklin's island
San Ignacio de Tupile ‐ May 2, 2025
Puerto Obaldía
Sapzurro, Colombia
Capurganá ‐ Apr 30, 2025
Necoclí ‐ Apr 29, 2025
Cartagena ‐ Apr 28, 2025
El Totumo
Cartagena ‐ Apr 27, 2025
Isla Grande (Islas de Rosario) ‐ Apr 25, 2025
Cartagena ‐ Apr 24, 2025
Santa Cruz de Mompóx ‐ Apr 21, 2025
Cartagena ‐ Apr 17, 2025
Barranquilla ‐ Apr 15, 2025
Ciénaga
Santa Marta
Palomino ‐ Apr 11, 2025
Zaino
Museo Chairama
Arrecifes Beach ‐ Apr 10, 2025
Cabo San Juan del Guia ‐ Apr 9, 2025
Colinas de Calabazo
Zaino ‐ Apr 8, 2025
Santa Marta
Minca ‐ Apr 5, 2025
Santa Marta ‐ Apr 4, 2025
Taganga
Santa Marta ‐ Apr 3, 2025
Barichara ‐ Apr 1, 2025
Guane
Barichara ‐ Mar 29, 2025
Villa de Leyva ‐ Mar 27, 2025
Bogota ‐ Mar 24, 2025
Zipaquirá
Catedral del sal
Zipaquirá

A very cute train ride up to see the world's (?) largest (?) underground salt cathedral.
Bogota ‐ Mar 23, 2025
Medellín ‐ Mar 19, 2025
Manizales ‐ Mar 16, 2025
Cali ‐ Mar 14, 2025
Popayán ‐ Mar 11, 2025
San Agustín ‐ Mar 8, 2025
UPZ La Candelaria ‐ Mar 3, 2025
Bogotá ‐ Mar 2, 2025

Newsletter link: Six years late, I finally made it to Colombia!

Six years late, I finally made it to Colombia One week in the country and we're already being offered the "special" tour...
El Dorado International Airport
Manaus International Airport - Eduardo Gomes, Brazil ‐ Mar 1, 2025
Manaus
Manaus
Reserva Florestal Adolpho Ducke
Manaus
Manaus ‐ Feb 27, 2025

And back to Manaus! To pay our visa overstay fines and enjoy cheap beer once again.
Boa Vista ‐ Feb 26, 2025

We'd originally planned to stay here the night before taking the next bus on to Manaus, but our accommodation fell through. When we arrived in town it felt a bit bleak anyway, so we decided to continue on and get the bus that night on to Manaus.
Bonfim
Lethem, Guyana

Hitched a ride in a minivan driven by one of the staff returning home from Iwokrama (for a fee). Another very long day of travel.
Iwokrama River Lodge ‐ Feb 24, 2025
Kurupukari crossing
Kupurkari
Kurupukari ‐ Feb 23, 2025

A pretty grim 10-hour drive down some of the roughest roads on the continent – a couple of hours' sleep in a hammock by the river and up again before dawn to catch the ferry across to Iwokrama Nature Reserve.
Georgetown ‐ Feb 19, 2025
New Amsterdam
Queenstown

Again, not quite a bus but a colectivo-style car share – the most common form of public transport in Guyana
Crabwood Creek

And so began the longest series of car shares ever known to get to Georgetown
Paramaribo Ferry, Suriname

USD$20 each to stand on the car ferry into Guyana, what a bloody racket
Canawaima Ferry Service

We missed the bus so Stephanie (the owner of the lodge we stayed at in Bigi Pan) dropped us at the ferry port while on the school run.
Nieuw Nickerie
Bigi Pan ‐ Feb 17, 2025

Newsletter link: Visiting Bigi Pan; things that go bump in the night in Brownsberg Mountain – Suriname

A sleepless night in a house of horrors There's an important difference between a scuttle and slither.
Nieuw Nickerie
Paramaribo ‐ Feb 15, 2025
Brownsweg
Brownsberg Natuurpark ‐ Feb 13, 2025
Brownsweg

Hitched a ride with a chaotic man called Josh and his nephew... not quite a bus but we paid them so not quite hitchhiking either. Such are the ways of Surinamese transport!
Paramaribo ‐ Feb 11, 2025
Rust en Werk
Paramaribo ‐ Feb 9, 2025
Albina
Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni, France
Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni ‐ Feb 8, 2025
Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni
Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni ‐ Feb 7, 2025
Saint-Laurent-du-Maroni
Kourou Total Garage

We tried and failed to get a bus from Kourou centre, so we hitchhiked and got a ride from a surfer dude called Shen who took us out of town to the gas station, where we eventually got picked up by a colectivo (minibus)!
Kourou ‐ Feb 6, 2025
Musée de l'Espace

A hike out to visit the European Space Agency in Kourou, because again – a real lack of buses in this country.
Kourou ‐ Feb 5, 2025
Kourou
Vue sur l'île Royale et l'île du Diable
Devil's Island
Islands of Salvation
Kourou
Kourou ‐ Feb 4, 2025
Arrondissement de Cayenne
Remire-Montjoly ‐ Feb 3, 2025
Cayenne

Newsletter link: Oiapoque – Cayenne – Kourou – Saint Laurent, French Guiana

I lost a toenail to French Guiana Crêpes! Rosé! Carrefour! We've gone on holiday to France by mistake.
Remire-Montjoly ‐ Feb 2, 2025
Remire-Montjoly
Remire-Montjoly

A note on the "buses" in French Guiana – they are almost always a minivan or car-share situation because real public buses are few and far between. However I've categorised them under "bus" because they are the main means of public transport and we didn't hire a car.
Saint-Georges
Oiapoque, Brazil ‐ Feb 1, 2025
Macapá

Newsletter link: Manaus – Santarém – Alter do Chão – Macapá, Brazil

Fleeing Brazil, one cargo boat at a time We are now criminals who have outstayed our visas.
Macapá
Santana
Mazagão ‐ Jan 31, 2025
Vitória do Jari
Almeirim
Prainha ‐ Jan 30, 2025
Monte Alegre
Pacoval
Santarém-Mirim

The second half of the journey by cargo ship: from Santarém to Macapá
Santarém
Alter do Chão ‐ Jan 28, 2025
Santarém ‐ Jan 26, 2025
Arapixuna
Óbidos
Juruti
Santa Rita da Valeria
Parintins
Mocambo ‐ Jan 25, 2025
Buçusal
Marajatuba
Augusto Montenegro
Itapiranga
Itapeaçu
Urucurituba
Itacoatiara
São Pedro de Iracema
Amatari
Novo Remanso
Engenho
Comunidade Bom Sucesso
Nazare
Manaus ‐ Jan 24, 2025
Amazon Green Tours houseboat ‐ Jan 20, 2025

Impossible to find on the map, but here's the approximate location of where our boat went!
Manaus ‐ Jan 18, 2025
Belo Horizonte ‐ Jan 15, 2025
Rio de Janeiro ‐ Jan 2, 2025
Saquarema ‐ Dec 27, 2024
Lagoa, Rio de Janeiro ‐ Dec 22, 2024
Petrópolis
Belo Horizonte ‐ Dec 21, 2024
Ouro Preto ‐ Dec 19, 2024
Barão de Cocais
Santuário do Caraça ‐ Dec 17, 2024

A trip to stay in a monastery to see maned wolves!
Barão de Cocais
Belo Horizonte ‐ Dec 15, 2024
Salvador ‐ Dec 10, 2024
Maceió ‐ Dec 7, 2024
Maragogi ‐ Dec 4, 2024
Porto de Galinhas ‐ Dec 1, 2024
Recife
Ponta Negra ‐ Nov 30, 2024
Lagoa de Genipabu

A beach buggy tour of the dunas de Genipabu, Natal
Ponta Negra ‐ Nov 28, 2024
Pipa ‐ Nov 27, 2024
Tibau do Sul
Pipa ‐ Nov 24, 2024
Natal
Salvador ‐ Nov 19, 2024

The longest bus journey yet – from Brasilia to Salvador (30 hours)
Brasília ‐ Nov 15, 2024
Campo Grande ‐ Nov 12, 2024
Passo do Lontra ‐ Nov 9, 2024

A trip to the southern Pantanal
Campo Grande ‐ Nov 8, 2024
Bonito ‐ Nov 4, 2024
Campo Grande ‐ Nov 3, 2024
Londrina ‐ Oct 14, 2024

Londrina, the cousin London never knew it had. Aka, Dave's new home for two weeks while I abandoned him to go to a wedding...

Newsletter links: Londrina, Brazil; Celebrating a year of travelling

1) Londrina Calling: Diaries of a high performance solitary holiday "One of the main reasons we decided Londrina would be a good place to abandon me was that it
Foz do Iguaçu
Ciudad del Este, Paraguay ‐ Oct 12, 2024
Coronel Oviedo
Curuguaty
reserva narutal del bosque Mbaracayu ‐ Oct 10, 2024

Newsletter link: Asunción, Filadelfia, the Chaco, Encarnacion, San Cosme y Damien, Trinidad, Villa Ygatimi, Mbaracayú Lodge – Paraguay

Paraguay: an unexpectedly holy roadtrip On religion, beetroot juice, and not quite making it to the Pantanal.
Villa Ygatimí ‐ Oct 9, 2024
Coronel Oviedo
Encarnacion ‐ Oct 8, 2024
Trinidad
Jesús de Tavarangüé
Trinidad ‐ Oct 7, 2024
San Cosme y Damián ‐ Oct 5, 2024
Encarnacion ‐ Oct 3, 2024
Asunción ‐ Sep 30, 2024
Filadelfia
Campo Aroma ‐ Sep 27, 2024
Filadelfia ‐ Sep 25, 2024
Asuncion ‐ Sep 20, 2024
Resistencia, Argentina
Salta ‐ Sep 14, 2024

Newsletter link: Salta, Argentina, to Asunción, Paraguay

A tale of two cities: Salta to Asunción It was the hottest of times; it was the muggiest of times
Municipio de Tilcara ‐ Sep 13, 2024
Municipio de Maimará
Tilcara ‐ Sep 12, 2024
Uquía
Humahuaca ‐ Sep 10, 2024

Newsletter link: From Bolivia to Argentina to Paraguay – Tarija and Tupiza to Villazón; Humahuaca, Tilcara and Maimara in the Quebrada gorge; Asunción.

Argentina take three: no money, mo' problems Nothing beats travel for escaping the birthday boo-hoos.
Serranía del Hornocal
Municipio de Humahuaca ‐ Sep 9, 2024
La Quiaca
Villazón, Bolivia ‐ Sep 8, 2024
Tupiza ‐ Sep 7, 2024
Municipio Tarija ‐ Sep 3, 2024

Newsletter link: Santa Cruz de la Sierra, Samaipata, Tarija – Bolivia

Out of the smoke and into the wine Dodging Bolivia's wildfires, vertigo in Samaipata, the many bodegas of Tarija.
Municipio Santa Cruz de la Sierra ‐ Aug 30, 2024
Samaipata ‐ Aug 26, 2024
Municipio Santa Cruz de la Sierra ‐ Aug 22, 2024

Newsletter link: Sucre, Potosi, Santa Cruz de la Sierra – Bolivia

'Beaver fever' and other things to feel embarrassed about I lost my dignity in a Burger King toilet.
Sucre ‐ Aug 15, 2024
Potosí
Uyuni ‐ Aug 14, 2024
Rio Mallcu
Laguna Blanca
Laguna Verde
Salvador Dali's Desert
Termas de Polques ‐ Aug 13, 2024
Morning Sun
Laguna Colorada
Stone Tree
Kara Lake
Laguna Hedionda
Laguna Cañapa
Volcán Ollagüe, Chile
Chiguana, Bolivia
Colcha K ‐ Aug 12, 2024
Isla Incahuasi
Acceso a Hotel Luna Salada
Colchani

The beginning of a pretty hardcore two-night, three-day tour of the Uyuni salt flats
Uyuni ‐ Aug 11, 2024

Newsletter link: Uyuni Salt Flats tour, Bolivia

Saltburn: tales from the Uyuni desert Bear Grylls can do one – Bolivian grannies are surely the hardiest people on the planet.
La Paz ‐ Aug 9, 2024
San Pablo de Tiquina
San Pedro de Tiquina
Copacabana
Challa Isla del Sol ‐ Aug 7, 2024

Newsletter link: La Paz, Copacabana (Lake Titicaca) Isla del Sol – Bolivia

Don't look back in anger, leave a Google review I am fuelled mostly by rage and cold and flu medicine by this point in our journey.
Yumani
Copacabana ‐ Aug 5, 2024
San Pedro de Tiquina
San Pablo de Tiquina
La Paz ‐ Aug 2, 2024
Desaguadero, Peru

The longest border crossing ever, continued

Newsletter link: Lima to La La Paz (border crossing – Peru and Bolivia)

The worst haircut in the world But "in every bad thing, you'll find something beautiful," said the man in the turquoise llama poncho.
Puno ‐ Aug 1, 2024

The longest border crossing into Bolivia – a broken down bus, a shared taxi, three hours at the border...
Arequipa ‐ Jul 31, 2024
Lima ‐ Jul 30, 2024

And back to Lima for the worst haircut of my life.

Newsletter link: The worst haircut in the world (Lima, Peru)

The worst haircut in the world But "in every bad thing, you'll find something beautiful," said the man in the turquoise llama poncho.
Iquitos ‐ Jul 28, 2024
Nauta
Libertad ‐ Jul 26, 2024

Newsletter link: Camping in the Amazon Rainforest – Libertad Lodge, Iquitos, Peru

A bigamist, a shaman and two gringos go camping Feeding the mosquitos deep in the Peruvian Amazon.
Nauta

A trip to the Libertad Jungle Lodge in the Peruvian Amazon
Iquitos ‐ Jul 23, 2024

Newsletter: A cargo ship down the Amazon River to Iquitos – Peru

A cargo ship down the Amazon The road to Iquitos part two: not advisable if you don't eat chicken.
Nauta ‐ Jul 22, 2024
Yurimaguas ‐ Jul 20, 2024
Tarapoto
Chiclayo ‐ Jul 19, 2024
Piura

The beginning of the four-day journey to the Peruvian Amazon
Mancora ‐ Jul 17, 2024

Newsletter: From Tena, Ecuador, to Mancora, Peru

Heaven is a waterfall and a compost loo Starting the journey south again to Peru: a jungle, a beach, a hundred buses.
Talara
Sullana
Macará, Ecuador
Loja
Cuenca ‐ Jul 15, 2024
Riobamba ‐ Jul 12, 2024
Tena ‐ Jul 9, 2024
Baños ‐ Jul 6, 2024

Thermal springs, terrifying bike rides and a stolen bag on the bus :-(

Newsletter link: Ambato, Baños, Tena – Ecuador

Daylight robbery in a town called toilets Whatever happened to fortune favouring the brave?
Ambato
Latacunga ‐ Jul 5, 2024
Laguna Quilotoa
Latacunga ‐ Jul 3, 2024

Newsletter link: From Quito and Otavalo to Latacunga – Ecuador

An earthquake, an election, a drunk lady in our cab No, I'm not talking about myself.
Volcán Cotopaxi

Big old hike up Ecuador's second highest peak in the snow.
Parque Nacional Cotopaxi
Latacunga ‐ Jul 1, 2024
Quito ‐ Jun 29, 2024

Newsletter link: Quito, Cotopaxi National Park, Otavalo – Ecuador

An earthquake, an election, a drunk lady in our cab No, I'm not talking about myself.
Otavalo

A day trip to see the very excellent market. I left my trusty black cardigan in the lunch café, RIP.
Quito ‐ Jun 27, 2024
Isla Baltra

Newsletter link: A voyage around the Galapagos Islands, Ecuador

A voyage around the Galapagos I've endured a lot of blue-footed booby jokes this week.
Puerto Ayora ‐ Jun 26, 2024
North Seymour
Isla Santiago ‐ Jun 25, 2024
Bartolomé Island
Isla Fernandina ‐ Jun 24, 2024
Isla Isabela ‐ Jun 21, 2024
Parroquia Puerto Villamil
Isla Rábida ‐ Jun 20, 2024
Isla Santiago
Puerto Ayora ‐ Jun 19, 2024
Isla Baltra
Quito ‐ Jun 17, 2024
Mindo ‐ Jun 14, 2024

Newsletter link: Quito and Mindo, Ecuador

On becoming a Coffee Person in Quito Navigating the great caffeinated unknown; trigger warning: butterflies
Quito ‐ Jun 9, 2024
Cuenca ‐ Jun 7, 2024

Newsletter link: Loja to Cuena, Ecuador

An ode to the menu del dia Throwing ourselves into Ecuador with shrunken heads, fabulous hats, and a solid Friday night curry.
Loja ‐ Jun 6, 2024
Piura, Peru ‐ Jun 3, 2024
Chiclayo ‐ Jun 1, 2024
Trujillo ‐ May 31, 2024

A beautiful French bar, a creepy museum, and a visit to the ancient cities of Chan Chan and Huaca de la Luna.

Newsletter link: Piura, Chan Chan, Huaca de la Luna

The things you'd find in my backpack Apart from a load of sand, receipts, and a few skeletons
Huanchaco
Trujillo ‐ May 30, 2024
Moche
Trujillo ‐ May 28, 2024
Huaraz ‐ May 26, 2024
Huascarán National Park ‐ May 27, 2024

A day perilous day trip up to Lagoa Peron

Newsletter link: Laguna Paron

The things you'd find in my backpack Apart from a load of sand, receipts, and a few skeletons
Huaraz ‐ May 26, 2024
Hiking path to Lake Churup
Huaraz ‐ May 25, 2024

Newsletter link: Ica, Huacachina; Hiking in Huaraz – Peru

Acts of courage and desperation Some people eat all the egg yolks and others do well to nibble around the edges.
Lima ‐ May 24, 2024
Huacachina ‐ May 21, 2024
Cabanaconde ‐ May 20, 2024
Colca Canyon
Cabanaconde ‐ May 19, 2024
Arequipa ‐ May 15, 2024
Puno ‐ Feb 1, 2025
Inka Taquile ‐ May 13, 2024

Newsletter link: Puno and Taquile Island, Lake Titicaca – Peru

The subtle art of doing laundry while mobile There are only so many times one can make a sad sock soup in the bathroom sink.
Puno ‐ May 12, 2024
City of Cuzco ‐ May 11, 2024
Pisac ‐ May 10, 2024

Newsletter links: Ollantaytambo, Cuzco, Pisac – Peru

Finally facing my Waterloo I can, and have, sacrificed a lot of things for this trip – but I'll be damned if Eurovision is one of them.
City of Cuzco ‐ May 9, 2024
Rainbow Mountain
City of Cuzco ‐ May 2, 2024
Montaña Huayna Picchu
Machupicchu

Really doesn't look very impressive on this map... but it was a big hike!!

Newsletter link: Machu Picchu, Peru

The road to Machu Picchu part two: Elvis legs Yogic mountainside breathing and a taste of how sophisticated people holiday
Chachabamba
Ollantaytambo ‐ Apr 30, 2024
City of Cuzco

The worst bus journey in history.

Newsletter link: From Nazca to Cusco, Peru

The road to Machu Picchu part one: a truly sh*tty bus journey Sixteen hours imprisoned in the faecal cage.
Nazca ‐ Apr 28, 2024
Líneas y Geoglifos de Nasca y Palpa
Nazca Lines
Nazca ‐ Apr 27, 2024

Newsletter links: Nazca, Peru

Mi casa es tu casa (unless you're washing up wrong) The joys and perils of Airbnb – we should know, we've stayed in about 100 of them.
Paracas ‐ Apr 26, 2024
Paracas Peninsula
Paracas National Reserve
Paracas
Ballestas Island
Paracas ‐ Apr 25, 2024
Lima ‐ Apr 19, 2024

A cut across the continent to make a date with friends up Machu Picchu

Newsletter links: Lima, Peru

The Catch-22 of getting into Peru Plus, violence in Rio: one man's battle against a shower screen
Guarulhos, Brazil ‐ Apr 18, 2024

To the airport!
Rio de Janeiro ‐ Apr 10, 2024

Newsletter links: Rio de Janeiro (April 2024)

The Catch-22 of getting into Peru Plus, violence in Rio: one man's battle against a shower screen
Angra dos Reis
Provetá Beach, Ilha Grande ‐ Apr 6, 2024

Newsletter links: Paraty and Ilha Grande, Brazil

1) The squid games of Ilha Grande It's all fun and games until someone ends up puking 2kg of unwanted fish 2)
Angra dos Reis
Paraty ‐ Apr 2, 2024
São Paulo ‐ Mar 30, 2024
Curitiba ‐ Mar 29, 2024
Blumenau ‐ Mar 27, 2024
Florianópolis ‐ Mar 25, 2024
Porto Alegre ‐ Mar 23, 2024

Newsletter Link: Porto Alegre, Florianopolis and the Brazilian south

The trouble with crossing borders by foot Tears, frontiers, and REALLY big beers
Chuí ‐ Mar 22, 2024

Newsletter link: Chuy/Chuí, Uruguay-Brazil border crossing

The trouble with crossing borders by foot Tears, frontiers, and REALLY big beers
Chuy, Uruguay
Aguas Dulces ‐ Mar 11, 2024

Our first (and only?) Workaway stint: two weeks on Fede's ecofarm near Aguas Dulces

Newsletter links: Aguas Dulces, Uruguay

1) How not to throw an armadillo over a moat Tales from the eco-farm, where no live animals were hurt for the purposes of this story 2)
Castillos
Punta del Diablo ‐ Mar 4, 2024

Newsletter links: Punta del Diablo

Better late than never? I set off on a year-long adventure to travel and write about it, but so far fun and adventure having been getting in the way...
Montevideo ‐ Mar 2, 2024
Colonia del Sacramento ‐ Feb 27, 2024
Carmelo ‐ Feb 24, 2024
Montevideo
Piriápolis ‐ Feb 22, 2024
Punta Del Este
Piriápolis ‐ Feb 20, 2024
Montevideo ‐ Feb 17, 2024
Colonia del Sacramento
Buenos Aires, Argentina ‐ Feb 11, 2024
Ushuaia ‐ Feb 4, 2024

Back to reality, and a week to recover down in Ushuaia.
Drake Passage ‐ Feb 3, 2024
Deception Island ‐ Feb 2, 2024
Lamaire Channel ‐ Feb 1, 2024
Damoy Hut ‐ Jan 31, 2024
Sprightly Island ‐ Jan 30, 2024
Trinity Peninsula
James Ross Island ‐ Jan 29, 2024
Joinville Island group ‐ Jan 28, 2024
D'Urville Island ‐ Jan 27, 2024
Drake Passage ‐ Jan 26, 2024

Drake Passage got nothing on this strong stomach
Beagle Channel, Argentina ‐ Jan 25, 2024

To Antarctica! A lot of the places we stopped at in Antarctica were quite literally unchartered, so Travelmap.net doesn't have them all mapped (hence the zigzagging here). Here's our full itinerary: Ushuaia – Active Sound – Cape Green / Fridtjof Sound – View Point – The Naze – Devil Island – Sprightly Island – Recess Cove – Damoy Point – Jougla / Port Lockroy – Lamaire Channel – Whalers Bay – Ushuaia
Ushuaia ‐ Jan 22, 2024

The race down to the bottom to prepare for Antarctica
Río Gallegos ‐ Jan 21, 2024

A bit of a zizag bus route to get down to Ushuaia – featuring two border crossings in one day. I wouldn't recommend it.
El Calafate ‐ Jan 20, 2024
Perito Moreno Glacier

A visit to one of only three glaciers in the world that isn't disappearing! Perito Moreno is moving forward about 2 meters per day, it's pretty nuts.
El Calafate ‐ Jan 19, 2024

Deep into Patagonia now for some four-seasons-in-one-day hiking.
El Chaltén ‐ Jan 18, 2024

A 28-hour bus ride sat behind a guy who insisted on being horizontal in his chair the full 28 hours.
San Carlos de Bariloche ‐ Jan 15, 2024

And back into Argentina, for loop number three.
Puerto Montt, Chile
Castro ‐ Jan 13, 2024

My mom's Chilean friend Teresa said it was her favourite place in Chile. It wasn't until we arrived it was basically just southern hemisphere Surrey.
Pucón ‐ Jan 9, 2024

To climb the mega Villarrica volcano.
Valdivia ‐ Jan 5, 2024

The biggest most badass bruiser sealions you ever did see.
Santiago ‐ Jan 2, 2024

And back again. We loved Santiago.
Valparaíso ‐ Dec 30, 2023

For the world's biggest NYE fireworks display. I didn't say the best.
Pichilemu ‐ Dec 27, 2023

I picked out this sleepy little surf town as a convenient stopping point for the inbetween days of Christmas and New Year and I'm so glad. Still the best sunsets of the entire trip.
Santa Cruz ‐ Dec 23, 2023

Christmas in the wine valley, where it was so hot my shoes melted off my feet.
Santiago ‐ Dec 22, 2023

We loved Santiago!
La Serena ‐ Dec 20, 2023
Vicuña
Pisco Elqui

A very jolly tour of the Elqui valley, starting with a morning wine and pisco tasting session and ending with an elderly French woman being sick.
La Serena ‐ Dec 18, 2023
Calama ‐ Dec 17, 2023

Just a stop to get our connection onwards from this pretty bleak and grubby mining city
San Pedro de Atacama ‐ Dec 14, 2023
Atacama Large Millimeter Array Science Preserve

Nabbed us a press visit up to see ALMA, aka the Atacama Large Millimeter Array, aka an observatory with the world's biggest telescopes. Pretty cool eh.

Link to an article I wrote about this place: "I work at the world's highest observatory and see billions of years back in time"

"I work at the world's highest observatory and see billions of years back in time" –
San Pedro de Atacama ‐ Dec 13, 2023
Salta, Argentina ‐ Dec 12, 2023
Cafayate ‐ Dec 11, 2023
Salta ‐ Dec 6, 2023
Corrientes ‐ Dec 5, 2023
Iguazu Falls, Brazil ‐ Dec 3, 2023

Just a quick nip into Brazil for a casual afternoon watching the falls from the other side...
Puerto Iguazú, Argentina ‐ Dec 1, 2023

The humidity, the humidity!
Posadas ‐ Nov 30, 2023
Rosario ‐ Nov 27, 2023

The second Argentina loop begins.
Buenos Aires ‐ Nov 22, 2023

Back to the capital for Primavera Sound Festival, and the end of our first loop around Argentina.
Cordoba ‐ Nov 19, 2023

Newsletter and journalism links: In search of a swim in Córdoba; election day

1) In search of a swim in Córdoba: Laundry, rivers and a failure to make Friends 2)
Mendoza ‐ Nov 13, 2023
San Carlos de Bariloche ‐ Nov 8, 2023
Esquel ‐ Nov 7, 2023

Our first glimpse of the Patagonian mountains (Chebut mountain range) did not disappoint.
Municipio de Puerto Madryn ‐ Nov 5, 2023
Gaiman
Municipio de Trelew

That's right, it's a Welsh colony in Argentina. The Welsh turned up, saw some damp hills and thought yeah, that looks like home.
Municipio de Puerto Madryn
Valdes Peninsula ‐ Nov 3, 2023
Municipio de Puerto Madryn ‐ Nov 2, 2023

Whale watching!
Bahía Blanca ‐ Oct 30, 2023

Newsletter link: Bahía Blanca, an alternative city break

Go to the port, they said. It's the city's biggest tourist attraction, they said. https://rachaelpells.substack.com/p/bahia-blanca-an-alternative-city-br
Buenos Aires, Argentina ‐ Oct 24, 2023

The starting point...

Newsletter links: Acknowledging the shitshow

1) Acknowledging the shitshow: Leaving Europe in chaos 2)